Whatever Floats Your Boat

Home Away From Home on the Chao Praya River

Long ago and far away the magical Kingdom of Thailand was a stop that welcomed few ferang, the Thai word for foreigner.  The people that found themselves in Bangkok were usually well heeled and sophisticated or super economy backpackers.  Both passed through or stayed for a while because Thailand was unique, welcoming and exotic.  From the end of WWII through the 80’s Thailand gradually inched up on the world destination list until today it is a regular stop on the itinerary of travelers to Asia.

Not only does Thailand welcome and host Westerners; people from Europe, Australasia, and North and South America, Asian travelers are flocking to the country.  Thailand has arrived and so have mainstream western and asian travelers.

Before Thailand fine tuned the appeal and list of attractions there were some places everyone who visited the country had to see because they were so Thai and so compelling.  The Palaces, the temples, the elephants, the countryside, the family homes that were transformed into Thai Dinner Restaurants and, always, always, the Bangkok floating Market.

Floating Market

The Floating Market of Bangkok was a destination that needed no polishing, no improving, nothing at all.  It was superb as it was.  What it was was an honest to goodness floating emporium or grocery store or modified department store.  The klongs where the market congregated every morning were filled, almost form side to side with small wooden boats that were pole-paddled by the entrepreneur who was there to sell his or more likely, her, goods.  The goods were fresh fruits, vegeatables, meats, fish, and shellfish.  There were also floating restaurants that cooked up breakfast or more substantial meals.  Flower boats and ones with plants were also part of the mix.

The clientele was composed of local ladies who were doing the daily shipping.  They came by foot and walked along the banks until they found the boat that had exactly the fish or fruit or veggie they wanted for today’s dinner.  Shouting and haggling were a part of the background music that made the day a treat to all of the senses.  Some shoppers paddled through the floating fair in their own boats from adjacent klongs.  There were even some of those wild and crazy foreigners in small wooden boats propelled by early tour operators or individuals who saw an opportunity to earn a few baht.

In short, the Bangkok Floating Market was a market.  It was not a tourist destination.  It was where Mom or Granny went to buy the groceries for the day.  It was pure 
Thai.

As Thailand and especially Bangkok grew both economically and physically more and more land was taken up with buildings and more and more women worked away from home.  The low value land along the klongs away from the city center became high value sites for a growing economy and the Moms were busy working on construction sites or in the blooming retail industry or in the new offices that were everywhere.  Granny’s role as the caretaker of the kiddoes was more intense and Gran really didn’t have the time to stroll down the lane to chat up her pals while on the way for a refreshing morning of haggling and buying the day’s needs.

The more complex Thailand and Bangkok became through the 90’s and into the new millennium the fewer local food customers went to the floating market.  At the same time the surge of tourists all had to see the fabled Floating Markets of Thailand.  The demand and rationale that drove the enterprise had very new and different forces.  It was no longer a morning business that took up no rent space along some canals in the periphery of the central city serving the neighborhoods, it became an attraction that competed for space and served mostly tourists and a few local grocery customers.

Inevitably Bangkok became too expensive to host the market.  At the same time more and more tourists showed up wanting to experience the floating market they had heard so much about.  The Bangkok Floating Market just floated away on the tides of progress.

The Floating market today is maybe 60 miles or so outside of central Bangkok in a provincial city called Damnoen Saduak.  Tourists take a bus or van or car on a ride mostly on a high speed road that takes around an hour and a half.  Getting around Thailand is not so bad after you get out of the Bangkok gridlock.

Instead of being a passenger in a small wooden human powered boat the preferred method of visiting the market is a long tail boat powered by an old gasoline powered engine notable for two major characteristics; great, loud engine noises an remarkable black exhaust gases.  And, it is fast, very fast.  That is great except for the fact that it is hard to go fast, really fast in a narrow canal with dozens of boats ahead and other boats coming from the other direction competing for right of way.  Actually, that does not usually bother the driver.  He gooses it like mad anyway.  Great thrill ride.

The scene has a number of piers where the tourists debark into large covered stores that are loaded with anything you never thought you really wanted to buy inThailand.  The boats that make up the market are alongside the walls of the klongs and are selling their products to some locals and many foreign visitors.  The products include the fruit & veggies and main course candidates as well as a great variety of take away or eat on the walkway food.  The products also include conical hats, postcards, T-shirts and other take home to the folks and friends items.

There are more spectators than sellers, there are more sellers on the shore than on the water, there are more tourists than locals.

All of the above having been said you probably think I am going to suggest that you save your time and money and forego the floating Market opportunity.  Wrong.  Do it.  It is still a great part of being in the Bangkok area, it is still a chance to ride boats, see people working alongside the roads marvel at the salt ponds, feel the energy and share in the warmth of the people.  Go.  Do it.  You are in Thailand and the floating market has evolved from the long,long time ago version but it is still unique, welcoming and exotic.  There ain’t no floating market in Munich or Manaus or Manchester or Montreal or Marblehead.  Experience something that is Thai, after all you are in Thailand.

Famous Long Tailed Boats